How to Get Rid of Mice in a Garage and Keep Them Out

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To get rid of mice in a garage, work on three fronts at once: take away the food and cover they live on, trap the mice already inside, and close the gaps they use to get in. The CDC's short form is seal up, trap up and clean up, and the cleanup steps are below too. For the trapping, our pick is Tomcat's Kill and Contain Mouse Trap, a covered trap that Tomcat lists for garages and that goes in the trash whole once its indicator shows a catch. For the small gaps around pipes and cables, Xcluder Rodent Control Fill Fabric is stainless steel wool woven with poly fibers, a material the Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management names for small crevices and gaps.

Poison comes last. The CDC says to use poison or bait stations only for infestations that persist, and this page links no poison; its bait station section explains what a station's label allows. Below: the signs that tell you where the mice are, the ways into a garage and what closes each one, a trap count for the wall you are working, and how to clean up droppings without stirring them into the air.

Jump to: Step by step | Where mice get in | What to use | How many traps | Bait stations | Cleaning up | Mice in the car

Start here: what to do about mice in your garage

Take the first line that fits you (the decision chart below asks the same questions in the same order):

• Mice, or fresh droppings, in the garage now: Tomcat Kill and Contain traps (pick 1) along the walls where you see the signs, and seal the gaps as you go (picks 2 and 3 below).
• No mice yet, and the gap you found is around a pipe, cable or vent, where the CDC holds the fill in place with caulk or spray foam: pack it with Xcluder fill fabric, then foam around it with Tomcat Rodent Block (pick 3).
• Any other small gap or hole you can pack by hand: Xcluder Rodent Control Fill Fabric (pick 2).

Trapped and sealed for at least 15 days, the CDC's minimum, and still finding fresh signs? The CDC's next steps are a poison bait station placed by its label or a pest control professional. This page links no poison; Bait stations in a garage explains what a label allows.

How to get rid of mice in a garage, step by step

The order follows the CDC's three steps and the University of California's integrated pest management program (UC IPM), which calls exclusion "the most successful and permanent form of house mouse control" but says that once mice are in, you nearly always have to bring their numbers down as well.

Step 1: Confirm it is mice and find where they are busy

UC IPM lists the signs: droppings, fresh gnaw marks and tracks show where house mice are active, and nests built from shredded paper or similar fibers turn up behind boxes, in drawers, in garages and around woodpiles. A musky odor is common with mice, and they are mostly active at night. Mice also move in with the cold: UC IPM notes that house mice living outdoors often come indoors in autumn as night temperatures drop. Note the walls and corners where the droppings are thickest, because that is where the traps go in step 3.

Step 2: Take away the food and the cover

A garage feeds mice well. The Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management (ICWDM) says that in garages mice eat sacked or spilled pet food, grass seed and insects. The CDC's advice is to store grain and animal feed in containers of metal or heavy plastic whose lids close tight, to use a garbage can of the same, with a tight lid and no holes, and to site bird feeders away from the house. Tomcat gives the same advice for dog and bird food, and adds that competing food near a trap makes the bait less of a draw. Clutter on the floor is cover: UC IPM says good sanitation will seldom control mice on its own, but mice with few places to hide, nest and raise young cannot live there in large numbers. Our garden tool storage ideas get rakes, spades and other tools off the floor and onto the wall.

Step 3: Trap the mice already inside

The CDC recommends traditional snap traps to bring rodent numbers down around the home, and trapping is UC IPM's preferred method where only a few mice have moved into a home or garage. Set traps against the walls, behind objects and in dark corners where you found droppings, because mice run along walls. Put a small amount of bait on the trap: Tomcat says a pea-sized dab of peanut butter is all its trap needs, since too much lets a mouse feed without setting it off. Use enough traps to make it quick (see how many traps), check them daily, and throw out what you catch right away.

Step 4: Seal the ways in

The CDC's measure is a pencil: a mouse can get through a hole about that wide, a quarter inch. UC IPM says house mice can squeeze under a gap 1/4 inch tall and through an opening 3/8 inch wide. Pack small holes with a metal fill such as stainless or copper wool, cover bigger ones with hardware cloth or sheet metal, and make the doors fit tight. The table under Where mice get into a garage goes gap by gap. Seal while you trap, so new mice stop arriving while you catch the ones inside.

Step 5: Keep trapping for at least 15 days, and until a week goes by with nothing

The CDC says to keep resetting traps until rodent activity stops, and to keep baited traps out for at least 15 days, longer if mice are still there. Its trap page says that a week with no rodents caught and no new signs means "the rats are gone"; it words that for rats, and we use the same quiet week as our check for mice. If a trap catches nothing for a few days, Tomcat suggests moving it to a new spot.

Step 6: If mice persist, a bait station, used by its label

The CDC's word is that poison or bait stations are for infestations that persist, and that if trapping does not resolve it you could consider a poison bait station or professional help. In a garage, the station has to be one whose label covers the places you will put it: see Bait stations in a garage.

Step 7: Clean up without stirring up the droppings

The CDC says not to sweep or vacuum droppings, urine or nests, because that can put tiny droplets carrying viruses into the air. Wet them with disinfectant first and wipe them up with paper towels: the steps are in Cleaning up droppings and nests.

Where mice get into a garage, and what closes each gap

The places come from the CDC's and ICWDM's inspection lists; the fixes from the CDC, UC IPM and ICWDM. A gap that a pencil slides into is big enough for a mouse.

Spray foam on its own does not stop mice. UC IPM lists insulating (expanding) foam with plastic screening, rubber, vinyl and wood as materials that do not work for plugging mouse holes, and ICWDM says expanding foam helps with heat loss but does not stop rodents getting in. The CDC uses foam the other way round: stuff the hole with steel wool, then put caulk or spray foam around the wool to keep it in place. That is how picks 2 and 3 work together. UC IPM also warns that plain steel wool works as a temporary plug but can rust.

What to use, by job

1. Tomcat Kill and Contain Mouse Trap: for the mice in the garage now

The Kill and Contain is a covered mechanical trap. You open a bait door on the back, add a little peanut butter or Tomcat's attractant gel, and set it with one press of the arm on its side. When a mouse trips it, the trap kills and holds the mouse out of sight, an indicator on the outside reads Mouse Caught, and you pick the trap up by its grab tab and throw the whole thing away. Tomcat names garages among the places to use it and says to set at least 2 traps 5 to 10 feet apart where you have seen mice. The listing linked here holds four traps, two packs of two.

Why it is the pick: the CDC recommends traditional snap traps for bringing rodent numbers down, and Tomcat says its covered trap and a standard snap trap "use the same basic mechanical, chemical-free kill mechanism." The cover is what suits a garage. UC IPM says not to handle mice bare-handed, and the CDC says to dispose of dead rodents immediately: with this trap the mouse goes into the trash still inside it, so there is no bar to lift and nothing to see.

Good to know: each trap is single use, so a garage with many mice goes through them; the trap count table below shows how many to set. Tomcat says to keep the traps where kids and pets cannot reach them, to keep your fingers clear of the striking mechanism, and to check them daily, especially in warm weather, to avoid odor from a catch. Wearing gloves to bait and set them, Tomcat adds, avoids leaving human scent that can make mice cautious.

Where it loses: one trap holds one mouse and then goes in the trash, so a long infestation needs a steady supply of them. Our best mouse traps guide ranks Tomcat's Press 'N Set, a snap trap you set with one press, first for most homes, and lists this covered trap as the one you throw away whole; for traps you empty and reuse, it also compares electronic and bucket traps, including a bucket trap for a big infestation.

2. Xcluder Rodent Control Fill Fabric kit: for small gaps and holes

Xcluder is a fabric of coarse stainless steel wool woven through with poly fibers. Xcluder says the blend springs back after you compress it into a small hole or crevice, so it expands to fit tight in place. The Large DIY Kit linked here comes with a roll 4 inches wide and 5 feet long, a pair of shears and work gloves.

Why it is the pick: ICWDM names Xcluder fabric, with copper Stuf-Fit, for securing small crevices and gaps, and UC IPM says to seal small cracks and openings with wire screen, or with coarse steel wool too tough for mice to chew. Xcluder says its stainless fabric will not rust or stain the way regular steel wool can, which matters because UC IPM warns that plain steel wool can rust.

Good to know: it is for small gaps. For an opening wider than 1/4 inch, ICWDM says hardware cloth, and the CDC says lath screen, metal, cement, hardware cloth or sheet metal for larger holes. The CDC's method for holes like these is steel wool held in place with caulk or spray foam, so around a round pipe or at the end of a gap, pair it with pick 3. Xcluder sells the same fabric in a kit with an inspection and fit tool too.

3. Tomcat Rodent Block Expanding Foam Barrier: holds the fill in place

Rodent Block is a pesticide-free expanding foam sealant in a 12 ounce can with a reusable straw. Tomcat says to fill a gap less than halfway, because the foam keeps expanding, and that it is no longer tacky after about 15 minutes and fully cured after about 8 hours, after which you can trim it, sand it or paint it. Tomcat lists the garage among the places to use it, inside or outside.

Why it is the pick: the CDC's own method for small holes is steel wool held in place with caulk or spray foam, and Rodent Block is a spray foam that expands into the gap around the packed fabric. Pack the gap with Xcluder fabric first, then foam over and around it.

Where it loses: do not use it as the plug on its own. Tomcat says the foam is formulated to block mice, but UC IPM lists expanding foam among the materials that do not work for plugging mouse holes, and ICWDM says expanding foam does not stop rodents getting in. Tomcat also says the foam is extremely sticky, to wear gloves and safety glasses, and that cured foam can be a fire hazard near a flame or above 240 degrees F.

How many traps for your garage (computed)

Count the wall where you found droppings, not the whole garage. ICWDM says to space mouse traps no more than 6 feet apart where mice are active, and UC IPM says no more than roughly 10 feet apart, because house mice rarely travel over 30 feet from their nests and food. With a trap at each end of the wall and none further apart than that, the count is the wall length divided by the spacing, rounded up, plus one. The last two columns turn that into packs of the four-trap Kill and Contain listing.

Tomcat's own minimum is 2 traps 5 to 10 feet apart. UC IPM adds that setting traps in pairs, 1 to 2 inches apart, catches more of the mice that jump over obstacles. If droppings run along two walls, count each wall. ICWDM also suggests baiting traps without setting them until the bait has been taken once, so mice do not become trap shy.

Bait stations in a garage: what the label allows

The EPA says the rodenticides sold to consumers come as ready-to-use bait stations with the bait inside, in block or paste form, and are labeled either for indoor use only or for use indoors and outside up to 50 feet from a building. Which of the two a product gets depends on whether young children and dogs have been shown unable to tamper with its station, and whether it stands up to weather. The EPA's advice is to read the label before you buy, to be sure it covers the place you mean to use it.

So if you reach this step, read the label for the exact place you mean to put a station, including whether it allows areas that pets can reach. UC IPM adds that all rodenticides are toxic, that baits go in tamper-proof stations that children, pets and wildlife cannot reach, and that there is evidence bromethalin can pass up the food chain to predators that eat poisoned mice. The ASPCA warns that "Dogs will chew open bait stations to gain access to the bait inside," and that many rodents carry pieces of bait off from the stations. UC IPM also points out that mice that eat poison often die inside the building, which can leave an odor, and that is when it suggests trapping instead. For these reasons this page links no poison, like our mouse trap and mouse repellent guides.

Cleaning up droppings and nests in a garage

The CDC's steps for sheds, barns and other outbuildings start with air: leave the doors and windows open for 30 minutes before you clean, and stay out while it airs, which in a garage means lifting the big door. Then:

1. Put on rubber or plastic gloves.
2. Spray the droppings and urine with a disinfectant labeled as one, or a fresh bleach solution of 1.5 cups of household bleach to 1 gallon of water (one part bleach to nine parts water), until they are very wet, and leave it to soak 5 minutes, or as long as the disinfectant's label says.
3. Wipe it all up with paper towels and put them in a covered garbage can.
4. Mop or spray the floor with disinfectant and wipe down shelves and other hard surfaces.
5. For a dead mouse or a nest, spray it and soak it the same way, then seal it in a plastic bag, tie that inside a second bag and put it in the trash.
6. Wash your gloved hands, take the gloves off, then wash your hands with soap and warm water.

Do not sweep or vacuum before everything is soaked, the CDC says. It also says to throw out cardboard boxes with urine or droppings on them and to move other stored boxes outside into sunlight to clean them.

Mice in a car parked in the garage

UC IPM says house mice damage vehicles as well as buildings by gnawing on wires, and the CDC says rodents nest in cars, trucks and campers, especially ones that sit unused. Its advice for a car that has been parked a while: open the hood, doors and trunk to air it out for 20 minutes, check the air intakes and filters before you start the engine, and look through the interior; disconnect the battery cables before you inspect the engine compartment. Clean any droppings or nests with disinfectant the same way as above, never with a vacuum or pressure washer first, and replace an air filter with a nest in it. The CDC says snap traps help stop rodents getting into vehicles and that food left in a car draws them. If you are thinking of a repellent spray, read its label: Tomcat's rodent repellent spray says not to use it on a car engine.

How we chose these

We started from what three sources say works against house mice in and around buildings: the CDC's seal up, trap up and clean up pages, UC IPM's House Mouse pest note (updated July 2025) and ICWDM's house mouse page, with the EPA's rules for consumer rodenticides. Then we matched each step to a product sold on Amazon. What we say about each pick comes from its maker's page, its directions and its Amazon listing, named where it appears.

Our floor, for the picks and for the notes under Also considered: in stock on Amazon and sold new by Amazon or the seller named on the listing, when we checked on October 30, 2026. Each pick met it.

Also considered: what missed the list and why

Xcluder X2 rodent proof garage door seal kits. A bottom seal for a sectional garage door with a rubber outer layer, a stainless steel screen and a core of Xcluder fill fabric, so it is not rubber alone, which UC IPM lists among the materials mice gnaw through. Xcluder sells it by door width and door thickness, so measure the door first; we do not link one size because the right kit depends on your door.

Tomcat's disposable Mouse Killer station (child resistant). A sealed, pre-filled bait station. Its directions limit it to indoor use and rule out any area pets can reach, and this page links no poison (see the bait station section above).

Tomcat Rodent Repellent Spray. A spray whose label lists sodium lauryl sulfate with peppermint, cinnamon and garlic oils as its active ingredients, for entry points, which Tomcat says to reapply every 30 days and not to use on a car engine or spray directly onto wires and sockets. Sealing and trapping come first on this page; our mouse repellent guide compares scent repellents and what Consumer Reports and the extension services say about them.

Glue boards and live traps. The CDC says not to use them, because they can scare rodents into urinating, which raises the chance of getting sick.

Ultrasonic plug-ins. UC IPM says there is little evidence that sound, magnetic or vibration devices drive house mice out of buildings or keep them out.

Related guides

For the traps themselves, our best mouse traps guide compares snap, electronic and bucket traps, including a bucket trap for a big infestation in a barn, shed or garage. A garden shed has the same problem and the same fixes, and our best storage shed guide compares sheds by what you need to put in them. To clear the floor, the garden tool storage ideas guide covers wall racks and pegboards for the garage.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best way to get rid of mice in a garage?

Do three things together: store food, seed and feed in sealed metal or thick plastic containers, set snap traps along the walls where you find droppings, and seal every gap a pencil fits into with a metal fill such as stainless steel wool or hardware cloth. UC IPM calls trapping the preferred method in garages with a few mice and exclusion the most permanent control. Keep trapping for at least 15 days, and until a week goes by with no catches and no new signs: the CDC gives that quiet week as its sign that rats are gone, and we use it as a check for mice too.

How do I keep mice out of my garage in winter?

Seal before the cold arrives, because UC IPM says house mice that live outdoors often move indoors in autumn as nights get colder. Check under the main door and around side doors, pipes, cables, vents and the foundation, and close any gap of 1/4 inch or more. Keep pet food, bird seed and grass seed in containers with tight lids, and keep watching for droppings: ICWDM says sites where food is stored must be monitored for mice continuously.

How small a hole can a mouse get through?

The CDC says a mouse can get through a hole as wide as a pencil, about 1/4 inch. UC IPM says house mice can squeeze under a gap 1/4 inch tall and through an opening 3/8 inch wide.

Does spray foam keep mice out?

Not on its own. UC IPM lists expanding foam among the materials that do not work for plugging mouse holes, and ICWDM says expanding foam does not stop rodents getting in. The CDC's method is to stuff the hole with steel wool and use caulk or spray foam around it to hold the wool in place.

Is mouse poison safe to use in a garage with pets?

UC IPM warns that every rodenticide is toxic to people, pets and wildlife, and the ASPCA warns that dogs chew open bait stations to get at the bait, so use one only after trapping has failed, and only a station whose label covers that spot, used exactly as the label says. The EPA says consumer bait stations are labeled either for indoor use only or for use indoors and outside up to 50 feet from a building, depending on whether young children and dogs can tamper with the station. The CDC says to use poison only for infestations that persist, and this page links none.

How do I clean mouse droppings out of a garage?

Air the garage out for 30 minutes with the doors open, put on rubber or plastic gloves, and soak the droppings for 5 minutes with a disinfectant or a bleach solution of one part bleach to nine parts water. Wipe them up with paper towels, bag them, and wash your hands after you take the gloves off. The CDC says not to sweep or vacuum droppings, because that can put droplets carrying viruses into the air.

Do ultrasonic repellers work in a garage?

UC IPM says ultrasonic sound has very limited use against rodents because it is directional, does not reach behind objects and fades quickly with distance, and that there is little evidence any sound, magnetic or vibration device will drive house mice out of a building.

Disclosure: Some links pay us a commission when you click or buy, and on some pages brands pay us through Amazon's creator program on links to their products. Availability was checked on Amazon on October 30, 2026 and can change.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.