Best Chainsaw Sharpener (2026): 7 Picks Matched to Your Chain

The best chainsaw sharpener for most people is the Granberg File-N-Joint G106B, a bar-mounted file guide that holds the file at the same angle and height on every tooth, takes any file size (files are sold separately; pick 3's kit covers the common ones), and lowers the depth gauges too. Outdoor Life named it best overall after testing, and Bob Vila named it the best bar-mounted sharpener. If you own one saw and want the easiest tool, the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File sharpens the cutter and lowers the depth gauge in the same stroke. If you sharpen often, a bench grinder such as the Oregon 410-120 is the step up.

Whatever you buy, it has to match your chain's pitch (many owners call the chain the blade). The pitch is usually printed on the guide bar near the saw body (.325, 3/8, 3/8P and so on); the file size chart below gives the file size for each.

Disclosure: as an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. It does not change what we recommend or what you pay. Availability was checked on Amazon on September 28, 2026 and can change; we do not print prices because they move, so every "Check price" link shows today's.

Jump to: Which sharpener fits your chain | What size file for your chain | Best electric chainsaw sharpener | Angles and depth gauges | Sharpening safely

Start here: which sharpener for you

• One saw, occasional sharpening: the Stihl 2-in-1 in your chain's size (pick 2), the tool Outdoor Life, Bob Vila and Family Handyman all recommend.
• Two or more saws with different chains: the Oregon 617067 kit (pick 3), or the Granberg (pick 1) with those files for even teeth without power.
• You want power and sharpen where you cut: the Oregon 12V Sure Sharp (pick 4), plus a depth gauge tool.
• You sharpen at a bench, or your chain has hit rocks: the Oregon 310-120 for occasional use (pick 5), or the 410-120 for heavy use (pick 6).

Find your pitch on the guide bar near the saw body; the file size chart explains the rest.

Best chainsaw sharpeners at a glance

How we chose these

We did not hands-on test these sharpeners. We compared each pick's Amazon listing, and the maker's product page or manual where one exists, against what three testers reported after sharpening real chains: Outdoor Life, Bob Vila and Family Handyman. Pro Tool Reviews also ranks sharpeners, from its editors' experience and product research rather than a test, so we count it as a recommendation, not a test. Sizes, angles and depth gauge settings on this page come from the chain makers (Oregon's safety and maintenance manual, Stihl's sharpening guides, Husqvarna's filing guide) and from Timberline's sizing chart.

Our rules: every pick was in stock on Amazon on September 28, 2026; six of the seven were recommended by at least two of those four reviewers, and pick 7 is the exception, with one tester. Two notes. Bob Vila tested the Stihl 2-in-1 in its 3/8 P size, which is the version we link first; Outdoor Life's pick links the .325 listing, and Family Handyman does not say. And the Amazon titles for the Oregon grinders, the 617067 kit and the 12V Sure Sharp do not print model numbers, so we matched each listing by the testers' own links and Oregon's product pages.

The best chainsaw sharpeners, by job

1. Granberg File-N-Joint G106B: best overall

Check price. This is a filing jig that clamps to the guide bar, so the chain stays on the saw. Granberg says it will hold all file sizes for standard chain pitches and for lowering depth gauges, that it is built from cast aluminum and zinc-plated steel, and that calibrated swivel guide markings set and hold the sharpening angle while other settings fix file height and tooth length. The listing's one line of description says it sharpens teeth to the same length consistently.

Why it is the pick: an even chain is what keeps a saw cutting straight (Outdoor Life traced its own crooked cuts to unevenly sharpened teeth), and this tool takes the guesswork out of it without power. Outdoor Life made it best overall; its tester says it holds the chain, adjusts height, pitch and angle, keeps every tooth the same, works on a bench or on a stump, and that once it is set up it gives consistent chains without the concentration and skill that freehand filing takes. Bob Vila, which named it the best bar-mounted sharpener, says it guides the file in exactly the same position for every stroke. Because it takes any file, it serves every saw you own; pair it with the round files from pick 3.

Where it loses: files are not included, so you buy the right round and flat files separately. It is slower to set up: Bob Vila needs three separate settings for right cutters, left cutters and depth gauges, took a couple of minutes longer than a freehand file kit on a small saw, and calls it cumbersome on smaller bars and shorter chain pitches. Bob Vila says the jig would really stand out on larger saws. On a small saw with low profile chain, the Stihl 2-in-1 (pick 2) is the simpler tool.

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2. Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File, 3/8 P: easiest to use

Check price. Buy the one that matches your chain's pitch. Stihl's 2-in-1 chainsaw sharpener is a plastic file holder carrying two round files and a flat file, so one stroke sharpens the cutter and lowers the depth gauge in front of it. The listing we link first is for 3/8" P chain with a 4 mm file (about 5/32 inch); Stihl also sells it for .325 inch chain and for 3/8 inch chain. Stihl describes it as for occasional users and says it has an integrated file tolerance adjustment.

It is the one tool all three testers recommend. Outdoor Life called it the easiest to use; Bob Vila, testing on 3/8 P chain, found it took five passes for each cutter and depth gauge together instead of filing each separately, and that keeping the handle flush against the bar sets the angle. Family Handyman made it its best manual sharpener and says the holder also keeps the ratio between the cutters and depth gauges. Use it the way Stihl's guide says: bar in a vise, chain brake set, the handle edges kept parallel to the bar, and never pull the file back.

Where it loses: one tool fits one chain size. Outdoor Life notes the files are replaceable only in the size you ordered, and Bob Vila says the angle and file positions are not adjustable, so a second saw with a different pitch needs a second tool. Bob Vila says it costs more than other manual filing systems (on Amazon on September 28, it cost more than the Oregon kit in pick 3). Family Handyman says it takes a little practice, and that you release and re-lock the chain brake to move the chain along.

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3. Oregon 617067 Universal Field Sharpening Kit: best file kit for several saws

Check price. Round files in 5/32, 3/16 and 7/32 inch, a 6 inch flat file, a file guide, a universal handle and a travel pouch, with a filing chart in the instructions. Those three round files are the sizes Oregon's filing table gives for 1/4, 3/8 low profile (91 series), .325, 3/8 and .404 inch chain; its 90 series low profile chain takes a 4.5 mm file instead (see the file size table).

Bob Vila named it the best chainsaw file set: its files removed metal faster than a similar kit's, needing less pressure, and it preferred Oregon's spring-clip file guide and simpler depth gauge guide. Pro Tool Reviews ranks it the best manual sharpener and notes the chain stays on the bar. If you own saws with different chains, this one kit covers the common file sizes, and it rolls up small enough for the truck. It does not include the 4.5 mm file Oregon's 90 series low profile chain takes or the 13/64 inch file for Stihl full-size 3/8 chain.

Where it loses: it is a freehand file with a guide, so it is only as even as your hand. Bob Vila calls it less precise than a mounted sharpening system, and Pro Tool Reviews says a very dull chain takes a while by hand. One guide serves all three file sizes, which a member of an arborist forum thread criticises; Oregon also sells guides and kits in single sizes, such as its 7/32 inch kit for 3/8 and .404 chain.

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4. Oregon 12V Sure Sharp 575214: best powered sharpener for the field

Check price. A handheld grinder that runs off a vehicle: it comes with a 12-volt car adapter and battery clips, plus one each of 5/32, 3/16 and 7/32 inch sharpening stones and a collet wrench. It sharpens any round-ground 1/4", 3/8" low profile, .325", 3/8" or .404" chain, and Oregon's page gives the motor speed as 25,000 rpm.

Outdoor Life named it the best electric field sharpener and ran it off a truck outlet, a truck battery, an ATV battery and a lawn mower battery. Bob Vila named it the best handheld electric: it took 3 minutes to sharpen its chain, and with care it got results similar to manual filing in about half the time. Pro Tool Reviews ranks it the best electric sharpener and notes that the chain can stay on the bar.

Where it loses: speed cuts both ways. Outdoor Life warns that the fixed 25,000 rpm makes for fast sharpening and fast mistakes, and Bob Vila says accuracy was not a strong point, since the angle guide is only a reference line, less precise than mounted guides. It does not lower depth gauges, Pro Tool Reviews notes, so add an Oregon depth gauge tool with flat file, whose listing says to use it at least every third time the chain is sharpened; pick a tool with the setting for your chain (.025 inch for most chains, .030 for some .404 chains, per Oregon). There is no case: Bob Vila says it lacks storage for some pieces, and Pro Tool Reviews says it comes only in its plastic blister pack.

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5. Oregon 310-120 Compact Mini Bench Grinder: best bench grinder for occasional use

Check price. A small bench grinder that sharpens the chain off the saw. Its Amazon listing is headed "Professional Compact", like pick 6's; this is the one described as a bench mounted mini grinder for occasional users. Oregon's page for the 310-120 says it is designed with the occasional user in mind, has an 85 watt, 4600 rpm motor, a manual chain clamping vise, weighs 15 lbs and stands 13 inches tall, and carries a 2-year limited warranty. Two wheels come in the box, 3.2 mm and 4.7 mm, which Oregon says cover 1/4", 3/8" low profile, .325", 3/8" and .404" pitch chain, with a dressing brick and a template.

Two testers used it and backed it. Outdoor Life made it best electric: once the knobs are set on the first tooth, every tooth after it is ground to the same angle, and it removes damage faster than the rest. Family Handyman found it the fastest and easiest to set up, since it came assembled in the box and only needed mounting, and had one side of a chain done within a couple of minutes. Pro Tool Reviews ranks it best overall. A grinder earns its bench space when a chain has hit a rock or the ground: Oregon's remedy for that damage is to file the cutters back until all of it is removed, and Pro Tool Reviews notes that bringing back a badly dulled chain by hand takes a while.

Where it loses: it bolts to a bench (Outdoor Life, Pro Tool Reviews), and the chain has to come off the saw. Wheels for other tooth sizes and a depth gauge grinding wheel are sold separately (Outdoor Life), though Outdoor Life notes you can dress the spare wheel flat with the included stone for depth gauges, or use a flat file. Family Handyman lists it as not for heavy use.

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6. Oregon 410-120 Professional Compact Bench Grinder: best for heavy use

Check price. The bigger Oregon grinder mounts to a bench or a wall and adds a 6.0 mm flat profile disc for depth gauge maintenance to the 3.2 mm and 4.7 mm wheels. Oregon's page lists a 220 watt, 3150 rpm motor on 5-3/4 inch wheels, a manual chain clamping vise, a built-in light, 17 lbs and 16 inches tall; the listing calls it right for semi-professional and home users who regularly saw wood.

Bob Vila and Family Handyman both named it best overall. Bob Vila's tester says it took only a few minutes to sharpen each chain once the adjustments were learned, with results equal to or better than a local hardware store's professional sharpening, and that every adjustment held securely within tight tolerances; the team preferred it wall-mounted, which saves bench space and gives a higher working height with better visibility. Family Handyman found assembly relatively easy and liked the bright LED work light. Pro Tool Reviews ranks it the best bench-mounted sharpener.

Where it loses: it is more machine than an occasional user needs; Family Handyman calls it overkill for many users. Bob Vila found the head tilt and depth stop knobs small and awkward to reach, and Pro Tool Reviews would like a hydraulic clamp. If you sharpen a few times a year, Bob Vila's advice is files or a handheld electric, and to leave benchtop units to people who use their saws year round.

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7. Sharp Pebble Electric Chainsaw Sharpener Kit: easiest plug-in handheld

Check price. A 120V handheld rotary tool with a chainsaw angle guide attachment, a wrench and four sharpening bits (5/32, 3/16 and two 7/32 inch). The listing says it has adjustable speed settings.

Family Handyman named it the easiest sharpener to use: it needs almost no assembly and little practice, fits in a drawer, and you set the bit and angle guide, switch on and hold the guide against the chain. It is here for readers without a 12V source handy who want the plug-in version of pick 4.

Where it loses: it does not maintain the depth gauges (Family Handyman), so it needs the same depth gauge tool as pick 4. Only one tester recommends it; the Oregon 12V has more tester support and is the rotary pick we would choose first.

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Also considered: sharpeners that missed the list and why

Husqvarna X-Cut SP33G file kit. An Outdoor Life pick: rollers keep the file lined up, and the guide doubles as a depth gauge with recommended settings for softwood and hardwood. It was out of stock on Amazon on September 28, 2026. Husqvarna's file kit for 3/8" LO PRO chain, with a combination roller file guide and depth gauge, was in stock. Like the Stihl 2-in-1, each kit fits one chain size.

Oregon 104004 Chainsaw Sharpening Kit, 5/32". Outdoor Life says it has the best depth gauge of the kits it tested and lost to the Husqvarna only because its guide does not keep the file level. It missed because it carries one file size; pick 3 covers more chains.

Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener, 5/32". A sharpener that cuts with a tungsten carbide cutter instead of a file. Timberline says one cutter comes with the sharpener, all carbide sizes fit the same tool, and a cutter lasts a minimum of 40+ sharpenings; it is also listed with a 3/16" or 7/32" cutter. It missed because none of the testers we read reviewed it. A related warning: Outdoor Life's biggest let-down was a bar-mounted, hand-crank jig from Nuovoware whose chain holder set screw failed, and it notes that several companies sell nearly identical-looking sharpeners in that style.

EzzDoo Electric Chainsaw Sharpener Kit. A plug-in rotary tool with diamond bits and a guide marked for 25, 30 and 35 degrees; the listing says it sharpens on the bar with no chain removal. Outdoor Life tested it and found it made quick work of each tooth, but the cord was short enough to need an extension and there is no provision for setting depth. It missed because pick 7 has the same role with a tester's award.

Dremel 1453 Chainsaw Sharpening Kit. An angle guide and four grinding stones for a Dremel rotary tool you already own. Outdoor Life found it sharpened quickly and liked its spacers and depth gauge, but its stone bits seemed to wear faster than diamond bits. It missed because it needs a Dremel tool, which is not in the box.

Timber Tuff CS-BWM Bench and Wall Mount Electric Chainsaw Sharpener. Another bench grinder with two hands-on testers behind it: Bob Vila named it the best bench-mounted sharpener and Family Handyman the best wall mount. It comes with 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch wheels, takes 5/32 and 7/32 inch wheels too (Family Handyman), and has a 15-watt work light. The testers split on mounting: Family Handyman named it the best wall mount, but Bob Vila found wall mounting tricky because the head tilt knob is at the rear, and bench-mounted it instead. Bob Vila also found the base hard to pivot, setup slow and no 5/32 inch wheel in the box; Family Handyman says durability could be better. It missed because the 410-120 (pick 6) has the same two hands-on testers plus Pro Tool Reviews and ships with its depth gauge disc, and Amazon showed limited stock on September 28, 2026.

Pferd CS-X Chain Sharp, 5/32". A 2-in-1 filing guide like the Stihl, which files the cutter and the depth gauge in one step at a 30 degree sharpening angle with a .025 inch depth gauge distance for 3/8 inch low profile chain. The DIY My Way blog, which ranks near the top of Google for this search, calls it an excellent chainsaw sharpener. It missed because no tester we read reviewed it.

Echo Saw Chain Sharpening Kit, 5/32". Bob Vila's best manual kit: its files seemed to cut more aggressively than a similar kit's, doing in three strokes what the other did in five. It missed because it holds one file size, and Amazon showed limited stock on September 28, 2026.

Which chainsaw sharpener fits your chain?

Four questions sort every sharpener: which chain sizes it covers out of the box, whether it needs power, whether it lowers the depth gauges as well as sharpening the cutters, and whether the chain stays on the saw. Bob Vila puts the last one simply: portable sharpeners are for touch-ups while the chain is still on the saw, and benchtop sharpeners need the chain removed. The last column follows that rule, with a named source where a tester or maker says it outright.

The pattern: the rotary grinders (picks 4 and 7, EzzDoo) are fast but leave the depth gauges to you. Without power, the Granberg (files bought separately) and the Oregon 617067 kit cover the most chains: the kit's 5/32, 3/16 and 7/32 inch files fit every row of the file size chart except Oregon 90 series low profile (4.5 mm) and Stihl full-size 3/8 (13/64 inch).

Chainsaw file size chart: what size file does my chain need?

For most chains: 1/4 inch and 3/8 low profile take a 5/32 inch file, .325 takes 3/16 inch, and full 3/8 and .404 take 7/32 inch (13/64 inch for Stihl 3/8 chain).

Start with the pitch, the size of the chain. Look first at the guide bar near the saw body: Granberg and Timberline both say the pitch is usually stamped there, as .404, 3/8, .325, 3/8P or 1/4. The drive links also carry a number, but it is the chain maker's code for the chain, not the pitch itself; on Oregon chain it is the series number shown in the chart below (91 is 3/8 low profile, 72 is 3/8 inch). If neither is readable, check your saw's manual, as Bob Vila and Popular Mechanics advise, or use Oregon's fallback: measure the distance between any three consecutive rivets and divide by two. The bar stamp also gives the gauge (drive link thickness), which Oregon says should match the bar; the file size follows the pitch and chain family, not the gauge. Then match the file:

Two cautions. The makers do not always agree: Oregon files its 1/4 inch chain with a 5/32 inch file, while Timberline uses a 1/8 inch cutter for 1/4 inch chain, and Timberline explains that Stihl makes its full-size 3/8 inch chain slightly smaller than the rest of the industry. So go by your chain's own marking and your saw's manual; Oregon notes that most of its chains have the depth gauge setting stamped on each depth gauge. And the size matters: Bob Vila warns that using the wrong size sharpener will ruin your saw chain, and Oregon's manual lists a file that is too small or too large among the causes of a chain that dulls fast or cuts slowly.

Best electric chainsaw sharpener

For most people, the best electric chainsaw sharpener is the Oregon 310-120 (pick 5) if you sharpen at a bench, and the Oregon 12V Sure Sharp (pick 4) if you sharpen where you cut. They are different machines. A bench grinder holds the chain in a vise and swings the wheel down to a set angle, so every tooth comes out the same, but the chain has to come off. A handheld grinder works on the saw and is fast, but you hold the angle yourself, which is why Bob Vila calls its guide less precise than mounted ones.

Step up to the Oregon 410-120 (pick 6) if you regularly saw wood or want to grind depth gauges on the machine; Oregon ships it with the flat disc for that. Choose the Sharp Pebble (pick 7) if you want a plug-in handheld and have no 12V source handy. The handheld grinders here (picks 4 and 7) all leave the depth gauges to a separate tool.

What angle to sharpen a chainsaw chain, and when to file the depth gauges

The angle comes from your chain, not from the sharpener. Stihl says its chains are generally filed to a 30 degree angle, holding the file at 90 degrees to the guide bar. Husqvarna gives 25 to 35 degrees depending on the type of chain. Oregon's filing table lists a 30 degree top plate angle for its 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch low profile and most .325 inch chains, and for some 3/8 inch (72APX, DPX) and .404 inch (27X, 27AX) chains; 25 degrees for several .325, 3/8 and .404 inch families; 10 degrees for a few; and 45 degrees for its square-ground chisel chains. So check your chain's family in Oregon's filing table before you set a guide. A file guide stamped with the right angle does this for you, and Oregon's troubleshooting pages say filing at too much or too little angle leaves a chain that dulls quickly or cuts slowly.

How high to hold the file: Oregon says to keep 1/5th, or 20%, of the file's diameter above the cutter's top plate, and that the correct file guide is the easiest way to hold it there. Stihl's guide says a quarter of the file diameter. Both say to file from the inside of each cutter to the outside, and to keep every cutter the same length; Outdoor Life found that uneven left and right teeth were what made its saw cut in an arc.

Depth gauges, also called rakers, are the small humps in front of each cutter that set how deep the cutter bites. Every sharpening shortens the cutter relative to its depth gauge, so the gauges have to come down now and then:

• How often: Oregon and Husqvarna both say every three to four sharpenings. Oregon's depth gauge tool listing says at least every third time.
• How far: most chains take .025 inch (0.64 mm), per Oregon; some .404 chains take .030 inch. Lay the gauge tool on the chain and file any depth gauge that sticks up through the slot level with the tool, using a flat file. Husqvarna's gauge is stamped Soft and Hard: Soft for softwood (conifers), Hard for frozen wood and hardwood, which takes slightly less wood per tooth.
• Not too far: Stihl warns that a depth gauge filed too low increases kickback, and Oregon says a chain with depth gauges filed too low grabs and usually has to be replaced. After lowering, Oregon says to round the front corner back to its original shape.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain safely

1. Shut it down. Oregon says to turn the chainsaw off before any maintenance. Popular Mechanics adds that on a cordless saw you should remove the battery pack.
2. Gloves and eye protection. Oregon's manuals say to wear protective gloves when handling saw chain, and Stihl's filing guide says to wear gloves and eye protection. For a bench grinder, Oregon's 410-120 manual says to wear gloves and protective eyewear, a face or dust mask if it is dusty, and that everyday eyeglasses are not safety glasses.
3. Hold the saw still. Stihl says to tension the chain snug, clamp the bar in a bench or stump vise without clamping the chain, and set the chain brake; release it only to move the chain along, then set it again.
4. Grinders: the 410-120 manual says to never start the grinder without its wheel guards, to replace a cracked or damaged wheel immediately, to unplug it before changing a wheel, and to keep bystanders and children away.
5. File forward only. Stihl says never pull back on a sharpening file; lift it and start the next stroke.

Mark your starting tooth with a marker, as Stihl suggests, so you know when you have gone all the way round.

Related guides

If you are still choosing the saw itself, our best chainsaw guide compares battery, gas and corded models, and once the rounds are cut, our log splitter guide and firewood rack guide cover the next two jobs, and our smokeless fire pit guide covers burning it. If it burns in a wood stove, our wood stove fan guide covers moving that heat into the room. For pruners, loppers, hoes and the rest of the shed, see how to clean, sharpen and store garden tools.

A word from the people who wrote this

We are Spear Head Spade, and we make double-patented digging spades, not sharpeners, so nothing on this list is ours. Oregon's manual gives the one reason our tool belongs near a chainsaw: never let the chain touch dirt or rocks, because dirt is so abrasive it wears away a chain's chrome plating in less than a second. When a stump or root runs into the soil, dig it clear before the bar gets near the ground. Our spade is the one tool in that job you never sharpen: each blade is pre-sharpened at the factory to a 35 degree bevel along the entire edge, tip to tail, and a regular file or grinder will not touch the steel. Our spade finder matches one to your soil.

Frequently asked questions

What is the easiest tool to sharpen a chainsaw?

For a manual tool, a 2-in-1 file holder: Outdoor Life named the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File the easiest to use, because it files the teeth and the depth gauges in one step and its guide bars show the correct angle. For a powered tool, Family Handyman named the Sharp Pebble handheld electric sharpener the easiest to use. Either one has to match your chain's pitch. The easiest way is to touch the chain up often on the saw with a guide that holds the angle: Stihl says three strokes per cutting tooth should be sufficient and recommends filing more frequently as regular maintenance, rather than waiting for a badly dull chain.

Is the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener any good?

Family Handyman tested the Chicago Electric 63803, the electric chainsaw sharpener Harbor Freight sells, and recommended it: lightweight at 6.5 pounds in a plastic housing, with a small footprint and a hand-brake chain lock, but not designed for heavy usage. For regular use, its best overall pick was the Oregon 410-120.

How often should you sharpen a chainsaw chain?

Oregon's manual says to touch up the cutting edge with a file every hour, more often if needed, and never to force a dull chain to cut. Stihl gives the signs that a chain is due: fine sawdust instead of large chips, smoke from the cut despite oil and correct tension, a saw that pulls to one side, or chattering and bouncing in the cut. File the depth gauges every three to four sharpenings.

How many times can you sharpen a chainsaw chain?

Until the cutters reach the wear limit. Every sharpening removes metal, and Outdoor Life notes that some chains carry lines showing the wear limit; Stihl says to replace the chain once its wear marking is reached. Oregon adds that a chain whose depth gauges were filed too low usually cannot be saved. Outdoor Life says that if you sharpen properly and take just the minimum needed, a chain should last a long time.

Should I sharpen the chain myself, take it in, or buy a new one?

Sharpen it yourself for routine touch-ups, and replace it once the cutters reach the wear marking (Stihl) or the depth gauges have been filed too low (Oregon). Family Handyman's tester often takes chains in for a professional tune-up after a couple of sharpenings, or when the depth gauges seem off, and sometimes simply replaces the chain. After a rock strike, Oregon's remedy is to file the cutters back until all the damage is removed, which is where a bench grinder earns its place.

How does an automatic chainsaw sharpener work?

Bob Vila describes the bar-end type: it clamps over the end of the guide bar and holds a sharpening stone against the chain while the saw runs, with limited adjustment, so owners of more than one saw may need two. None of the testers we read put one in their picks.